Steppe Magazine

steppe 1

Winter 2006

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116 pages

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The Emirate of Bukhara in Colour

At the dawn of the 20th century, Russian photographer Sergei Mikhailovich Prokudin-Gorskii documented the diverse history and culture of the Russian Empire. Modern advancements in digital technology have allowed Prokudin-Gorskii¹s photos (taken with red, green and blue filters) to be developed in colour. Scenes that seemed distant and old-fashioned in black and white become immediately tangible in colour. Prokudin-Gorskii's remarkable photographs invite you to step into the multicoloured world of the Bukharan Emirate.

The Arasan Banya, Almaty

Often overlooked as a Soviet monolith, these pictures of the Arasan Public Baths in Almaty, Kazakhstan suggest otherwise. A common feature in Central Asian cities, the public bathhouse is a practical meeting point with a communal atmosphere. The Arasan Public Baths house Central Asia's most elaborate bathing spot, blending late-Soviet architectural detail with the essential elements of the spa. Rebecca Beardmore has a look around and freshens up inside. Photographs by Philipp Meuser, Chris Herwig and Matthew Fletcher.

Pamir Knot: Where Mountains Meet

The chaos of contours that make up the mountains of Central Asia fan out from the Pamir Knot - a remote and desolate plateau crossing the borderlands of Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and Chinese Xinjiang. Known colloquially as the 'roof of the world', this is the nucleus of more than five major ranges including the Pamir, Hindu Kush, Karakoram, Kun Lun and Tian Shan Mountains. Text by Mike Searle. Photographs by Yann Arthus-Bertrand and Chris Herwig.

Top Ten Bus Stops

While buses do eventually arrive in Central Asia, it is unlikely that three will come at once. Bus stops must therefore provide shelter and shade as protection against potentially inclement weather. The decorative techniques used: mosaics, murals, pebbledash, and the artistic flair applied to these simple, functional buildings make them extraordinary icons of the landscape. Those built in the Soviet period tend to display strong patriotic overtones with workers smiling, for example, as they march towards the local factory. Post-Soviet bus stops, on the other hand, emphasize a new identity for these young nations, such as their Islamic and nomadic heritage. Photographs by Chris Herwig.

Russian Outpost in Kyrgyzstan

The small town of Karakol, with its quintessential wooden architecture and provincial charm, was the farthest outpost of the Russian Empire in Tsarist times. Situated in its own valley on the edge of Lake Issyk Kul, Kyrgyzstan and nestled between impressive mountain ranges, the natural beauty and varied history of Karakol has lured travellers and explorers across the centuries. Ian MacWilliam treads in their footsteps. Photographs by Tatiana Lobanova and Chris Herwig.

 

Snapshot: Akhal Tekke

Elite horses have been bred on the Central Asian plains for thousands of years. This tall, strong and beautiful strain probably originated in the Altai Mountains where burial mounds have revealed kings with all their precious possessions, including similar horses. The breed is renowned for its endurance and was named the Akhal Teke after the Russians annexed the Central Asian plains in 1881. This photograph shows Piyada, a horse belonging to the President of Turkmenistan, Saparmurat Niyazov, which is an exquisite example of the breed. Note the high head carriage, long back, and distinctive metallic glow. Photograph by Nikolai Kireyev.